Feasting on Providence

Some seriously delicious nachos. [Photographs: Leah Douglas]

According to its website, Tortilla Flats, a Mexican/Southwestern/Cajun restaurant in Providence, is “an unapologetically unexpected uncommon commonplace.” Though wordy, this phrase aptly describes a place that prides itself on providing a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere for everyone from families to young professionals to long-time regulars. While generally identified as a “Mexican” restaurant, the menu is by no means authentic, and is indeed a mishmash of cultures. But traditional Mexican food is not the point here; rather, it is the creation of a great environment that is emphasized. A diverse menu, well-stocked bar, and kitschy decor make dining at “the Flats”, as it’s called, a truly memorable experience for those not expecting the genuine flavors of Mexican cuisine.

The most eye-catching appetizer was the Gringo Nachos, a heaping plate of hearty chips, olives, lettuce, cheese, beans, and jalapenos. The nachos also feature plentiful portions of fresh salsa and bright, citrus-y guacamole. It can easily serve four, though my girlfriends and I have been known to polish them off in parties of half that size. Amusingly, the tagline of this dish is: “Far but authentic, but very good!” An apt description of many items on the restaurant’s extensive menu.

For a main, you can’t go wrong with the Harvest Burrito (at right). Served with well-seasoned rice and simple, tasty beans, the Burrito is enormous. It is filled with seasonal vegetables (upon my last visits corn, zucchini, squash, and onions) and Boursin cheese – an almost humorous application of the cross-cultural theme of the menu. The Burrito is grilled, and truly delicious. I really can’t restrain myself from finishing it when it is placed before me. I might have a problem.

Also delicious are the Enchiladas, available with a variety of fillings including beans, beef, and the interesting combinations of chicken, raisins, and cinnamon. Slathered in cheese and served with the same rice and beans, the portion is huge. Such is true of most things on the Flats’ menu – finishing the entire platter is near impossible. Or at least, not advisable.

I have yet to try the dinner menu at the Flats, but it features many more interesting items, notably those pulling from the chef’s experience in southern and Cajun cooking (see Louisiana Alligator, or Bayou Crawdad Cakes). The restaurant also prides itself on a long list of varied specials each weekend. In the past, the chef has featured items such as tripe, tongue, duck, and other experimental ingredients that tests the flavor palates of its clientele. Many of these specials are being incorporated into a new menu, set to launch in just a few weeks’ time.

A very extensive bar.

At the Flats, customers are made into regulars. All members of the staff smile and chuckle when asked about their loyal patrons, saying that many have been coming to the Flats every week for twenty years. And I can see why. First of all, the bar is stocked with nearly 40 kinds of Tequila – sampling those alone could keep you busy for a while. But a smiling waitress, a heaping plate of soul-filling food, and very affordable prices also make this place infectious. I’m already looking forward to my next visit, where a girlfriend and I are planning to sample the dinner and dessert menu and the nighttime scene. No matter who you are, the Flats is the place to come for relaxation, unassuming dining, and shamelessly fusion cuisine.

Tortilla Flats: 355 Hope Street, Providence RI; 401.751.6777.